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When curating a list of London’s best eateries, one might foresee familiar award-winning establishments. But, tucked high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant area of northern London.

A Surprise Recognition

The little Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the city by a influential culinary publication. This honour has made the proprietors totally surprised.

“I’m completely astonished,” states the family member, pointing to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their small place earning such a lofty position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This compact space, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing spot, has retained much of its original charm. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” notes the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the fare, and this eatery definitely delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled securely inside.

It is typically eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in less syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Stars

Remarkably, this modest spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, equivalent experiences at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

The Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not work at fancy establishments. “I am truly proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate beyond its own walls. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this gastronomic triumph.